BELOW IS A COMPLETE WALK-THROUGH ON HOW TO TAKE YOUR WHAMMY PEDAL FROM ZERO TO HERO IN JUST 10 EASY STEPS.

Like everyone else, your whammy starts off like this: 

BEFORE WE START, GATHER UP THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

-Soldering Iron/Solder

-Phillips Head Screwdriver

-7/64" Allen Key

-Few feet of hook-up cable

-Drill with a unibit, or appropriately sized bits

-3PDT switch of your choice (I used a blue one from Pedal Parts Plus)

-SPST micro momentary switch (part# 275-1571 from Radio Shack)

-2PDT momentary (only if your doing the momentary mod).

-LED/Bezel of your choice

-1k Resistor for the LED

-Adjustable wrench 

STEP 1:

Removing the allen screws. You'll need a 7/64" key, or a plier (if you don't mind scratching the screws up). 

STEP 2:

Remove the phillips screws holding the MIDI jack in place.

STEP 3:

Opening it up. Be careful not to force anything during this step as you could damage the pedal.

The enclosure is in two parts, the baseplate, and the faceplate. You want to gently move the faceplate towards the right (the side with the MIDI jack), and it should push back away from the faceplate. Then push the baseplate towards the left (sliding it off the output jacks) and it should come clean off.

STEP 4:

Remove the momentary switch that serves as the current bypass. We will be moving it to the back of the enclosure (using a smaller switch). Also unsolder the cables leading to it, to make the rest of the modification easier (no momentary switch flopping around everywhere).

STEP 5:

Put the 3PDT in its place.

STEP 6:

Cut the output trace. There's a tiny, thin trace between the two little blobs of solder that you need to cut. Use an X-acto, or utility knife. If you have a Multi-Meter, test for continuity. You can do it without it, but it would be harder to trouble-shoot if not working right.

STEP 7:

Cut the input trace. This one is easier to cut.

STEP 8:

Wire it up! Standard true-bypass wiring. To solder to the tiny blobs, I loaded the blobs with some extra solder before trying to solder the wire to it.

STEP 9:

Powering the LED. Since the WH-4 runs off AC power, we can't just tap into the power where it comes into the board. After some poking around, I found some 5V DC power where marked on the board. The negative can be taken from a variety of places. I used the one marked on the board. I found a 1k resistor in series with the LED worked perfectly.

STEP 10:

We still nee to be able to access the original momentary switch to calibrate the pedal. Solder the black/white cables to a momentary SPST switch of your choice. I used a Radioshack 275-1571 for mine. You can mount this switch anywhere you want. I mounted mine on the rear of the unit so it's not visually distracting. I reinforced the soldered joints with duct tape as the black/white cables are rather delicate and felt like they would break if bent too much.

Everything mounted and ready to close. Notice the paper, to prevent shorting out with the new, fatter, circuit board area.

To put it back together, follow steps 1-3 in reverse. Here it is all put back together.

Mine has the extra 2PDT momentary, for quick stabs. The wiring is identical to the 3PDT, and you just wire them in series (one after the other). Although there is circuit board under the word 'Whammy' on the front, there is a small spot where there is enough clearance for a switch.

An added perk of the momentary switch, is when you have the effect engaged via the 3DPT, if you press the momentary switch you get a 50/50 blend of dry/wet in certain settings! So you can get some sounds this way that you can't get normally.

The instructions on this page serve only as a guide. I take no responsibility if you break your pedal, or hurt yourself. SO BE CAREFUL!!